How to choose a suit

   How to choose men’s suit

Fitting is to be begun from jacket and here the most important are so-called “shoulder girdle” and collar that should fit the neck softly. The good suit is to fit without a wrinkle in shoulders and you should feel not constrained and at the same time not too much relaxed.

On the back no vertical and no horizontal wrinkles have to be present, except of symmetric vertical fins for movement freedom. If the jacket has two vents what is modern currently, they should be closed, when the jacket is buttoned up. If the jacket is good in shoulders and you fasten the lower button with difficulties, do not try to solve this problem choosing the larger size. It will be better to experiment with suits of different models (1, 2, 3 buttons; 1, 2 vents) and completeness at leisure.

The length of classical suit is determined in the following way: standing directly, lowering arms, hold the jacket tails. If you did this without any movements, it means the suit length is well. It is also necessary to pay attention to the sleeve length, it should be shorter than shirt cuff by 1-1,5 centimeter. REMEMBER: the sleeve length identifies the culture of the person! If jacket is a little bit wide for you and sleeves are long, ask your master to fit in suit according to your body and height who as a rule is present at the good store.

Belt of classical suit is to be situated on the waistline or lower to 4 centimeter (Fashion), and bottom of trouser legs is to cover shoes back to the middle. It is necessary to pay a special attention to the trousers length. If it is chosen correct, one not big fracture appears on crease at ankle. For business wardrobe it is better to buy trousers with not sewed lower edge. In that case you can choose necessary for you length and master will sew it after fitting.

Classical trousers are to be sewed with slope “on heel”, in such a way trousers are longer in one-two centimeter from behind than in front.

Everything is to correspond with place and time. Knowledge of main kinds of classical suits can help you to follow this rule.

FORMAL SUITS. Formal, in other words, business suits form the basis of modern man’s wardrobe, that 80% time takes career and business. Nowadays business suit is a suit, consisting of two pieces of clothing. Jacket and trousers in two-piece suit are always sewed of the same fabric. In modern business suits the high quality of wool is very important. According to etiquette it is possible to use in business situations not only classical grey or colour of charcoal but also all dark tints of blue colour. Delicate variants of not very wide and contrasting stripe are admissible in order not to be a focus of especial attention.

INFORMAL SUITS. Over recent hundred years the notions concerning day-off clothes have been changed fundamentally. Everybody elder than 50 years observes the fact that in cities, establishments and restaurants, on conferences, meetings and in business situation people are put on currently like on days of his or her youth only on weekend. Nowadays there are a lot of variants of informal suits of casual style for non-work days, walks and travels. 

CASUAL – CONSTRUCTION IS SIMPLER, FABRICS ARE BRIGHTER. For informal suits it is used the same and a little bit simpler constructions of classical models of formal suits. Informal suit is considered to be a jacket-and-trousers set, differed by the colour (“companion”). The main difference of non-business style consists in structure of fabric and more “relaxed” range of colours. Modernized and open structures of fabrics are typical for “casual” style. Such fabrics are volumetric, lightweight, have heightened threads separation that is why they are less lasting than fabrics of classical texture. As far as the goods of such fabrics belong to the category “fashion item”, it means a screamingly fashionable item, it is not necessary to make the same demands like to classical formal suits, designed for more than one year of wearing.

FOR ONE SEASON. “Fashion item” is an item for one season. By fabric production for such goods the priority belongs to new fabrics, mixed fabrics with special effects. Traditional fabrics for informal suit are the following: cotton, flax and silk. The particular conversation is to be devoted to flax and silk. The main advantage of flax and silk is their “coolness”. Such goods do not need obligatory ironing. Among well-to-do people there is a rule to put on them slightly crumpled that means relaxation and comfort (in appropriate situations). Jackets and trousers of flax and silk are to be considered luxury goods. Nevertheless it is necessary to distinguish luxury on vacation from business luxury and to use crumpled clothes only according to the intended purpose. They are especially suitable for travels to the tropical countries. Recently modern woolen fabrics with fantastic properties have appeared that are not inferior to traditional fabrics for hot climate, for example summer cashmere. The variants of summer cashmere of lightproof thread texture can be used as well as for business suits.